Tools Needed

• Trim Clip Remover
• Flat & Phillips Head Screw Drivers
• Razor Scraper
• Small Pick Tool
• Needle Nose Pliers
• T-15
• T-40 (4MM Allen wrench can be used instead)
• Clear Silicone Adhesive (optional)

Overview

The installation of new door frame weather seals is basically the same on the 70-81 (Gen 2 cars) as it is on the 82-92 (Gen 3 cars). The one primary difference between the two is that on the 82-92 cars you will need to remove the door panels where on the earlier 70-81 models this can be done with the door panels still on the car. Since we are installing these on a 1989 GTA all you 70-81 owners will skip the beginning of this section which deals with removing the door panels.

On 82–92 Models Only

To install the weather seals you will need to remove the door panel in order to access 2 of the 4 weather seal mounted screw points. To remove the door panels (Applications will vary some year to year)

1. Remove the door handle trim plate and lock pull. On the pre-86 or so models there is a large body unit which has a few real star bit heads and plenty of "fake ones." Remove these working front to back. On the 89 model we are working on there are two trim covers we had to remove to access these. One had the Trans Am bird emblem on a small square trim plate the other was located behind the handle and was a round pop off trim plate. We used a small pick to pry under and pop off these plates. Once the trim plates were removed, we were able to access the star head bolts and remove them. We then slid the trim plate toward the B-pillar (back of the door) as there is a slide retainer on the base of the trim plate. Now that the trim plate was loose, we popped off the lock trim knob by prying outward on the unit at the knob. (forward facing section of the unit) On our model this is a pop clip that simply snaps into place. Once you pop it off the lock pull trim comes right out. Our GTA also had power locks which we disconnected at this point by popping off using our pick once more. (Not a bad idea to disconnect the battery if you have power locks prior to doing this). The door handle trim cover now simply slides forward around the inner door handle and comes off.
2. Using a trim clip remover, start at the B-pillar and pry up and outward on each clip using the trim clip remover. Note: As the car ages, these can become brittle, but we do offer replacement clips in our store. Working clockwise down and around to the A-pillar area. Note: These are multi tier clips. Make sure to get the tool pressing against the tier of the clip and not on the door panel itself as the clip will tear away from the door panel, lobing the hole. What you want is to remove the clip still attached to the door panel and not to leave the clip attached to the body.
3. Door Pull/Armrest removal overall is the same from 82-92. On later years small trim covers hide the mounting T bolts. Simply pop these trim covers using a pick and prying outward.
4. Once the door panel around the frame is loose, you need to pop the plastic upper frame off the door top. To do this you must wiggle the unit and have one end come up and out of the frame. Then you simply slide the unit outward. The door panel will then lift up and off. Pulling the door panel loose from the upper frame of the door panel is the tough part so take your time and do not force it.

On All 70–92 Models

1. On all models (we removed the door panel on 82-92 cars above) you will now remove the front and rear weather seal retainer push pins and/or screws, depending on year and model. The Phillips head screws and the push pins can be removed using a set of needle nose pliers. On most models there are 4 total and you will find these at the top front and rear of the door frame where the window glass comes out of the door. The small clips that hold the weather seal down and around the frame can be pulled by simply using needle nose pliers, going between the weather seal and door frame, and prying up on each clip. (LOL or you can simply pull the seal right off: pop, pop, pop, pop. Note: If you simply tear and peel it off, you will still need to remove the clips, but they come right out. If you see any of the clips have the heads tear off leaving the stems in the mounting holes, use a small pick to pop them through into the shelf on the inner door frame.
2. Prep and clean the surface for the new seal. On some cars there is no adhesive so simply wipe this area off around the door frame. Other cars may have adhesive still on the door frame or sections from the decayed weather seal. Use a razor scraper to remove any stray debris. Note: On older cars you may find rust on that area now that the weather seal is out of the way. Prep and repair as needed prior to install of new seals.
3. Installing the new seals is quick and flows easily along. Starting at the top of the door frame by the B pillar area, install the 2 retainer screws or pop tabs. Note: Our kits came with new black plastic pop tabs we however prefer to use screws for a long lasting retainer. On the trim parts units simply line up the ball part of the seal and pop the screw through on the rubber mounting area. There is some room for adjustment here on screw hole location, so adjust to needs. On the OER units there is a predrilled plastic tab instead of rubber, so install screw in the predrilled area. Once the main ball of the seal is installed work down and around clockwise popping in the small push tabs. At times you may need to stretch the seal to line up the mounting clips to the holes but over all they simply lay into place as you work around. Once you reach the upper section around to the A-pillar area, you will once again install the screws. Note: You can apply a small dab of adhesive every 6 to 12 inches along the entire body of the seal if you so choose although it is not needed. That comes down to personal choice on this.
4. The 82-92 models you would now reinstall the door panels onto the car following the above directions in reverse. On 70-81 models the seal is now installed and you can shut the door on this project!

Product review: 1982–1992 Model door frame weather seals.

As folks know, we carry the Metro Molding weather seal line for 90% of our client's weather seal related needs. We have used the Metro line for years and find it to be a nice fit along with the durability and warranty wanted. On this project we used units produced by Trim Parts and also by OER. Both units installed easily, but there are pro's and con's for both units. We believe in trying other producers units, and we do use and offer many Trim Parts and OER products which in many cases are bar none the best in the industry when compared against competing products and parts.

OER

Positives — Smooth install overall, plastic wing style mounting tab of the large ball end is a plus. Solid compound and additional attention to secondary grooving and detail to the seal is nice.
Drawbacks — Oversized A-pillar end ball makes contact with body at 90% closed making for hard shutting during break in periods. (Have to muscle door closed after install) which could lead to wear on striker mechanism. Counter this by back trimming of the end ball at A-pillar side. One year replacement warranty would be nicer if it matched industry standard of 10+ years.

Trim Parts

Positive — Smooth install all around. Push pin clips on body of unit fit like a glove and pop right into place. Softer compound makes break in period go by much easier as doors shut much softer and easier. Rubber-based wing style mounting tab of large end ball allows for some adjustment on install. Units also have industry standard 15 year replacement warranty.
Drawbacks — Possible concern due to softness of unit as per durability of units 10 years down the line. Trim Parts does, however, offer a 15 year replacement warranty on their units thus offsetting this concern.